Breitling was founded in 1884, and from the beginning the company specialized in chronographs. In fact, it is fair to say that many of today’s chronografegenskaper know and love, can be attributed – at least partially – in the development carried out by the company. In 1942 Breitling introduced the first watch with a circular light regulation, Chronomat. A few years later (1954), the legendary Navitimer made its debut. The focus of today’s article, however, is the Chronomat, perhaps one of, if not the most commercially successful fake Breitling watches model of the last sixty years. Unlike popular belief, Chronomat is not Navitimer, which has proven to be Breitling’s biggest seller. Today we take a closer look at the latest version, Chronomat Black Steel 44 SE. First, however, a little history.
It is generally accepted that Chronomat made its debut in public sale in 1942, and this is the date that has been cited for many years by the Breitling company. The replica Breitling Chronomat watches life began in 1940 with the application for a Swiss national patent for an innovative circular light control to be used in connection with a wrist chronograph. The circular design of the Chronomat slide is known as “Type 42”. Emphasis was placed on wrist applications in engineering and mathematics, science and industry, positioning it as an analog computer for the wrist.
Chronometer of 1940 is considered one of the most historically important replica Breitling Chronomat watches ever made, a true classic. There is a scale of 0-100 red near the center of the wheel that can be used to read 1 / 100ths of a minute, which is necessary to make exact calculations using the calculation rule. Swiss cross and number 217012 on the disc refers to the Swiss regjeringspatentet granted in 1940. As with other period chronographs it was about the record mark at 3, 6 and 9 minutes when the long distance telephone calls were charged in one step 3 minutes back when. The rotating square contained an external telemetry scale and the watch was equipped with the legendary Caliber Venus 175.
Chronomat functionality helped to create one of the largest luftfartskronografer ever made, Navitimer, and from 1954 to 1962, both models coexisted and are aimed at different market segments. The first one was promoted at that time as a chronograph for engineers, the other as a tool for pilots. In July 1962 edition of the pilot AOPA magazine, however, the newly developed Chronomat (Ref.808) promotes as a watch that suits the pilots. Despite this confusion, the character of the model did not change. Chronomat was produced in many forms, including a version of the first automatic chronograph in the late 1960s and a non-chronograph quartz during the 1970s. Then, in the 1980s, it was reborn in a different way, like a pilot’s watch without the slide.
After the catastrophic quarterly crisis, fake Breitling watches had to reinvent himself. In 1984, Chronomat (Ref.81950) was introduced. This new incarnation was designed with the participation of Italian military pilots, but it was very different from the iconic Navitimer. Instead of age-type 42 glidestyren I had a time frame that rotates with four protruding “rytterfliker”, easy to grip while wearing gloves in the cabin. They also provided a measure of protection for the crystal. The screws and crowns became more prominent and, therefore, easier to use with gloves. This also marked the first time that Breitling used the Valjoux 7750 movement.
This new watch was called Navitimer Chronomat and it was very different from the previous Chronomets. It was undoubtedly a sports chronograph with an interesting mix of ultra-modern and traditional elements, which had all the necessary specifications for a suitable tool chronograph. After all, it was water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and had been tested with a power of 20 g. In 1984, a special version of Chronomat with the Frecce Tricolori logo on the field was issued to members of the aerobatic team.